Farm-to-Fork at Farmyard Kitchen

With spring in swing, and new menus imminent, we thought now was a good time to introduce our new Head Chef at Farmyard Kitchen, James Wilson. 

James Wilson has been a chef at Farmyard Kitchen for almost two years, but it wasn’t until December last year that he stepped up to the role of Head Chef. We caught up with the ambitious 28-year-old to get the lowdown on his culinary backstory and find out more about what’s cooking.

James’s introduction to professional kitchens was more necessity than vocation. “Like a lot of other chefs, I fell into the trade,” he says. “When I didn’t finish college, I started working at a local restaurant. I enjoyed the fast pace and the adrenaline; it was a good feeling, especially for a youngster not knowing what they’re doing.” Just six months in, aged 17, the realisation hit that he’d found his calling. “So I got my head down,” says James. He hasn’t looked back since.

James’s first taste of fine dining was at Wentworth Club, a private golf and country club in the leafy suburbs of Surrey. “It was a 25-30 chef kitchen with a lot of heat and a lot of egos, and I loved it,” he laughs. 

Lured from home by the new Nordic cuisine of Scandinavia, James went on to intern at some of the best restaurants of the day: 108 and Relae in Copenhagen, followed by Grön in Helsinki, where he stayed to earn his stripes – experiences he credits with bringing a constant source of inspiration to the chef he is today. Stints at Palace in Helsinki and an all-consuming role at ‘50 Best Restaurant’, Oaxen Krog in Stockholm, prompted a return to a quieter life back in the UK, to The Clockspire at Milborne Port via Lundies House on the north coast of the Scottish Highlands.

Farmyard Kitchen has always been about gathering over hearty farm fare, cooked mostly in the wood oven. James has been sprinkling creative flair on its menus since he arrived at The Newt in the summer of 2022, and describes his cooking style as “simple,  Scandi-influenced and pretty on the plate.” He’s a big fan of foraging too, seeking out unusual ingredients such as black mustard and miner’s lettuce, with his own secret spots for ground elder, chickweed and, at this time of year, an abundance of wild garlic.  

He describes lunch at Farmyard Kitchen as a relaxed affair, with simple dishes such as estate-grown salad bowls, flatbreads and slow-cooked meats. Dinner, while still relaxed, features an elevated menu of refined plates, such as asparagus with charred herbs and capers; estate lamb with watercress and spring greens; and glasshouse tomatoes with nasturtium and sourdough. For anyone in the market for a feast, there’s also the five-course Farmyard Experience with optional wine pairing. 

James has always been an advocate for using every bit of the animal, showcasing the different cuts in various guises (often across several courses). His new spring menu at Farmyard Kitchen’s steps that up a notch. There’s estate beef tartare with beef fat mayo, and a braised beef cheek and oxtail dish with slow-cooked tongue and shallot, ensuring a meltingly delicious outcome for our less popular Butchery cuts. He follows the same no waste principle with our Market Garden vegetables, using the off cuts to create new elements on a dish.

Pudding lovers will find simple yet crowd-pleasing offerings such as strawberries, clotted cream and basil or a generous wedge of French toast-esque brioche bread pudding with creamy cardamom gelato. 

Turning humble ingredients into flavourful dishes you really want to eat, James is passionate about sharing his art from the open kitchen. “As much as we can, we try to get the chefs to serve the food in the dining room, because we know everything that’s gone into it,” he says. 

With an ambitious young team including apprentice chefs, the Farmyard Kitchen experience grows ever more cheering with each visit. “The culture we have in the kitchen is very close, very relaxed; but very driven,” says James. “How everyone works with each other is very positive – we’ve got apprentices down here that don’t want to work anywhere else.” 

And his future aspirations for Farmyard Kitchen? “I’d like it to be the go-to restaurant on the estate,” James says simply. Now’s the time to check it out.

Farmyard Lunch Menu (changes regularly)

Farmyard Dinner Menu (changes regularly)